Caulking & Sealants

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Making Sense of Caulks and Sealants

Today's products adhere better, stretch farther, and last longer, but choosing the best one is harder than ever

by Brian Pontolilo

A trip to the home center for a tube of caulk can be a befuddling experience. Water-base caulks boast performance capabilities once available only in silicone. Silicone caulks advertise paintability and water cleanup. And new synthetic-rubber and modified-silicone polymers claim to do it all, adding to the confusion.

To make matters worse, caulks and sealants are heavily marketed with flashy labels and fancy names. The good news is that today's caulks and sealants perform better than ever. Still, each family of caulk has its own unique qualities. Although it is important to read labels and follow manufacturers' specifications and instructions whenever using sealants, you still need to know a few things that you won't find on the label.

Caulk is an old boat-building term; sealant originated in home building. Today, some manufacturers use caulk as an all-purpose term and sealant to describe their high-performance products. Most often, though, the terms are used interchangeably, and the products serve the same purpose: to fill gaps between building materials and to keep water and air at bay.

Just as they do the same job, caulks and sealants fail for the same reasons. There are three types of caulk failure: adhesive, cohesive, and substrate. Simply put, the bond between the caulk and the substrate can fail, the caulk itself can tear, or the substrate can break. However, problems with caulked joints are commonly due to one of two errors. Either the substrate was not effectively prepared, or the wrong product was selected. So before choosing a product, consider how it will be used.

First, consider what materials the joint is made of and how much movement it is likely to encounter. Silicone, for example, adheres well to glass and tile but poorly to wood. Although products with different chemistries claim to be flexible, some are better suited for frequent joint movement. Remember, too, that caulk generally is not recommended for gaps that exceed 1/2 in. wide at their midpoint.

Surface prep is the key to good caulking

Caulking a joint isn't as easy as it looks. If you've never applied caulk before, it is probably a good idea not to make your first attempt in a highly visible area. If nothing else, try gunning a consistent bead of caulk on a scrap of material first.

1. Scrape out the old caulk.
The most important step in caulking a joint is the surface preparation. The substrates that are going to be coated with caulk should be clean and dry. Any old caulk should be scraped out with a putty knife, a razor blade, or a painter's 5-in-1 tool. And if the substrate is damaged, it should be repaired before caulk is applied. If possible, caulking should be done when the joint is at its midpoint. This means that it is best not to caulk in extreme temperatures or humidity.

2. Cut the tip at a 45º angle.
The tip of the tube of caulk is tapered, so you can cut it open to the correct size for the joint you're sealing. Cut the tip at a 45º angle, and apply the caulk with the opening parallel to the joint. It doesn't matter if you push or pull the caulking gun as long as you get enough caulk into the joint for it to bond to both substrates.

3. With the sides of the opening taped, apply the caulk with the opening parallel to the joint.
Tape the sides of the joint to protect surrounding areas from residue, and know how your caulking gun operates so that you can release the pressure when you stop, to avoid having any extra caulk spill out of the tube.

4. For a smoother look, tool the bead right after you apply it.
Tooling the caulk after it is applied is not necessary. But if you are not confident that you got enough caulk into the joint or if you want your work to have a smoother finished look, tool the bead immediately after application.

5. Remove the tape.
If you are using a water-base caulk, you can use a wet finger for tooling. Otherwise, you can use a sponge, a spoon, the corner of an old credit card, or any other disposable item that fits the shape of the joint. When tooling silicones or solvent-base sealants, a little soapy water will keep caulk from sticking to the tool. Remove the tape but protect the area until the caulk has cured.

Photos: Brian Pontolilo

Kitchen and bathroom caulks.

Next, consider location. If you are sealing around a sink, you want a mildew-resistant product. Kitchen and bathroom caulks resist water and mildew. Most caulks are mildew resistant, which means that mildew will not degrade the product. Mold and mildew, though, can stain cured caulk. So in the kitchen and bathroom where water and mildew are common, a product with an added biocide is a good idea. If you need to fill a gap between vinyl windows and wood clapboards, you need a product that bonds well to both materials, is flexible, and is weather resistant.

Also consider when you are going to apply the product. Temperature, humidity, and moisture can affect application. Water-base caulks can stand up to harsh weather once they cure, but they require a few days of ideal weather to set up. In cold weather, when polyurethanes become viscous and difficult to apply, most silicones work just fine.

Colored caulk.

Caulk without a caulk gun.

You can buy a colored caulk or mix your own. Colored and textured caulks and sealants are available to match paint, tile, grout, and other masonry materials. Red Devil's Create a Color system (www.reddevil.com) allows you to mix latex paint with caulk while it is still inside the tube. The cured caulk will match the color of the paint.

If you've never used a caulk gun before, if you have only a small job to do, or if a tube of caulk just isn't the best option for the particular task, you may be in luck. Caulks and sealants also come in squeezable tubes, aerosol cans, brush-on formulas, and peel-and-stick applications.

Water-base caulks are the easiest to work with

With a smooth, thin consistency, latex (latex products include vinyl and acrylic) caulks are easy to apply and tool. They clean up with water, have little odor, and are nontoxic. Water-base caulks adhere well to most common building materials, and cured water-base caulks are paintable.

Water-base caulks have come of age, and products like DAP's Dynaflex 230 (www.dap.com) and OSI's H2U (www.osisealants.com) combine the benefits of water-base products with the adhesion, flexibility, and durability once available only in silicones and polyurethanes. Performance, however, varies dramatically from one product to the next. The trick is to make sure you choose the best product for the job.

Water-base caulks.

There's a wide range of water-base caulk, from painter's caulk to elastomeric sealants. Latex caulks can be used just about anywhere as long as you choose the right product for the job. Some water-base products are flexible and weather resistant for exterior joints; others are intended to hide only interior seams that are to be painted.

For most interior applications, water-base caulks and sealants are the way to go. For less than $2, you can pick up a tube of latex caulk that is perfect for sealing interior window and door casings, baseboards, and other moldings. There are high-performance water-base caulks that can be used for exterior joints, but expect to pay more for a product that will stand up to the elements. And make sure to apply water-base products only under ideal conditions.

Water-base caulks cure best in warm (above 40°F), dry weather. Humid conditions slow curing. Although water-base caulks can be applied to moist surfaces, rain can wash them away before they cure fully.

Water-base spray-foam sealant.

For gaps that aren't likely to move or encounter adverse weather and for areas that would benefit from a little insulation, spray foams may be more appropriate than caulk. Water-base spray-foam sealants cure soft and spongy, making them less durable than polyurethanes. They are not water resistant, and they have a slightly lower R-value than polyurethanes, typically around R-4. But because they expand less than polyurethanes, some folks may find them easier to use.

Silicones are the best sealant for glass, metal, and cold weather

One caulk-manufacturer's representative told me that silicone soon will be a thing of the past. According to this source, other chemistries are outperforming silicones, are easier to work with, and are often less expensive. Another manufacturer, who also makes silicones, disagreed, saying that silicones are still the best product available for many applications. Both arguments have merit.

Silicone caulks.

Fifty years of evolution in silicone caulks brings us an assortment of products formulated for just about every substrate. Although the competition is stiff in most areas, there is no substitute for the strength of silicone on hard surfaces like metal, glass, and tile.

Silicone is tricky to work with. It is more difficult to gun and tool than some other caulks and requires solvents to clean up. Most silicones cannot be painted. Once silicone is damaged, it tears easily, and silicone products cannot be repaired by reapplication because silicones do not adhere to cured silicone. Silicone also adheres poorly to one of the most common building materials, wood.

On the other hand, silicone stands up to extreme weather, cures soft, and remains flexible. Although silicone stinks, it is not toxic, so it can be used inside. Because silicone is inorganic, it is unaffected by UV radiation and resists mold and mildew. Silicone can be applied at virtually any temperature and can stand up to adverse weather conditions shortly after application. There are silicones formulated for most substrates, but most important, silicone adheres to nonporous substrates better than any other sealant, making it the best choice for surfaces such as glass, metal, ceramic tile, and porcelain.

Synthetic-rubber caulks stretch and recover

Synthetic-rubber caulks.

Synthetic-rubber products like Sashco's Lexel (www.sashco.com) and OSI's Quad are not labeled as a particular chemistry like silicone or poly-urethane, but represent some of the most flexible and clearest-curing products on the market. These qualities make them ideal for exterior joints likely to expand and contract.

Solvent-base synthetic-rubber products adhere well to most substrates, can be applied in wet and cold weather, and resist mildew. But the qualities that set these caulks and sealants apart from the rest are the ease with which they stretch, their ability to stretch without breaking, and their ability to recover.

These products have a low modulus, which means that they require only slight pressure to begin stretching. Because they stretch so easily, there is less chance that the bond or the substrate will break during joint movement. Synthetic rubber also is said to have memory; when it is stretched even to extreme lengths, it returns to its original cured size and shape. All told, these qualities make solvent-base rubber caulks and sealants the best products for use on log homes, on wood siding and roofs, and in other joints that encounter frequent movement.

Synthetic-rubber caulks and sealants are paintable with water-base paints and come in clear formulas that cure more transparent than any other caulk. Be careful, though, because they are also flammable until they cure, shrink significantly, and have a high percentage of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). In fact, in some parts of the country, some synthetic-rubber caulks do not meet current VOC regulations. For this reason, solvent-base rubber caulks should not be used indoors.

Polyurethane stands up to traffic

Polyurethane spray foams.

Polyurethane can be dangerous. Not only is polyurethane stringy and odorous, but it also is toxic and potentially hazardous to your health.

So why bother with polyurethane? Because polyurethanes are the only sealants that can stand up to abrasion. Forget that polyurethanes are paintable, flexible, and weather resistant. There is almost nowhere in residential construction that a safer product cannot be substituted -- except for those high-traffic areas. But if you need to seal joints on a floor, on a driveway, or in a garage with frequent foot or vehicular traffic, break out the rubber gloves, the respirator, and the polyurethane sealant.

Polyurethane spray foams cure rigid and have an R-value up to 4.5 per in. But polyurethane foams are tricky to use because they expand as they cure. Polyurethane foams come in low, moderate, and highly expanding formulas, but even minimally expanding polyurethanes grow
up to 300% before they cure.

Butyls are water resistant

Butyls are exceptionally messy. They stretch like chewing gum and have little or no ability to recover. And they have an unattractive tarlike appearance.

But as far as caulk technology has come, butyl is still the most water-resistant product available. For this reason, butyls remain viable. Gutters are a good example of the right place to use butyl. Butyl resists water, and because it never hardens completely, butyl can stand up to the random movement of a shear joint. A shear joint is where two substrates overlap. Roof flashing is another example of a shear joint, and another place where butyl is the best choice. Butyl's resistance to moisture also makes it the best caulk to use on foundations or anywhere a sealant may be needed below grade.

The newest hybrids defy classification

Modified-silicone polymers.

Modified-silicone polymers like DAP’s Side Winder and OSI’s Advantage represent the newest type of sealant available. They are difficult to classify because they combine the chemistry and benefits of water-base, silicone, and polyurethane products into one sealant. They are expensive but worth the money for sealing important outdoor areas like windows, doors, and vents. Like latex and acrylic products, modified-silicone polymers are easy to gun. Like silicones, they can be applied in extreme temperatures and can withstand rain almost immediately. Like polyurethanes, they are incredibly durable and adhere well to almost all substrate material. They are flexible, paintable with water-base paints (use a latex primer before coating with oil-base paints), have a lower VOC content than solvent-base synthetic-rubber products, cure quickly, and don’t shrink.

The combined weatherability, durability, and flexibility of these new hybrids may make them the best product for sealing around exterior penetrations like windows, doors, and vents. At this point, the only known downfalls of modified-silicone polymers are that they are expensive and new. Although the manufacturers put all their products through rigorous testing, modified-silicone polymers have been on the market for only a few years, not long enough to prove their worth to demanding builders and homeowners.

Sealants & High Performance Caulks

Discount Sealants & High Performance Caulks

We specialize in the finest professional grade polyurethane sealants, tri-polymer sealants, adhesive sealants, polyether sealants, high performance caulks and specialty sealants. Popular items include Duralink, M1, Novalink, Novalink SL, NP1, NP2, SB-188, Sonneborn SL1 & SL2, Sonolastic 150 VLM, Sonolastic Clear 25, TX1 (textured) and Weathermaster sealants. These exterior grade high performance sealants are manufactured by the world leading suppliers including BASF / Sonneborn, Chemlink, Franklin and Surebond. They are designed for the toughest applications including roof sealants, foam roof sealants, RV roof sealants, metal roof seam sealants, metal siding, log homes / cabins, extreme environment sealants, all types of window sealants, deck sealants, pool walls, pool decks and expansion joint sealants.

Concrete expansion joints are sealed with self leveling expansion joint sealants. Sonneborn SL1 / SL2 and Novalink SL are most popular. Large expansion joints use expansion joint covers.

Backer Rod is used together with SL1 and SL2 for expansion joints around pools, driveways, etc. Backer rod is also recommended for the proper Proper Joint Design using most sealants. Novalink SL is great for lower temperatures, quicker curing and wider expansion joints (and does not require mixing like SL2).

Backer rod is used with sealants in vertical building wall expansion joints as well as log cabin chinking. Backer rod sizing and installation information.

How much sealant? See our Estimating Guide.

Our sealants and caulks have been tested in extreme conditions and are designed to provide the best adhesion and sealing to a variety of materials. The long term performance is guaranteed by the nation's best manufacturers. And we can ship small or large quantities cost-effectively and quickly to most any location.

Questions? Email Sales@bestmaterials.com
Or call 1-800-474-7570 / 602-272-8128
You'll get a prompt response !

SEALANT PRODUCTS:

By Family Type:

Cold-Weather / Low-Temp Curing Sealants (SB-1800)

Crack Fillers, Control Joint Fillers

Expansion Joint Sealants (Self Leveling SL1, SL2, Novalink-SL)

Exterior Grade Sealants (NP-1, TX-1, Duralink, Novalink, etc)

Fire Rated Sealants (Fireblocks, Fire resistant & Foam sealants)

Fountains, Pools. Email us details of your application.

High Performance Exterior Grade Sealants (M-1, Novalink, S-150, etc)

Metal Roof & Siding Sealants (Duralink, TiteBond Weathermaster)

Quick Curing Sealants (SB-1800 etc)

Self Leveling Sealants (SL1, SL2, Novalink SL, etc)

Siding Sealants (now in 200 custom colors, for all types of siding)

Silicone Sealants (high-temperature, high-strength, SB-188))

Structural Adhesive Sealants (High Tensile, M1, SB190, Clear 25)

Window & Glass Sealants (Clear 25, Sonolastic 150, M-1, Ultra)

Products Applications:

1-Part Pourable liquid pitch-pan, pipe and penetration sealer.

Barr Waterproofing mastic, odor free indoor/outdoor), 99%

solids, polyether based, suitable for asphalt product repairs.

Not UV resistant -- needs over-coating.

Butyl Rubber Butyl Rubber Sealing Tapes: Self adhering butyl rubber in a

double-sided tape. For metal roof seams, RV roof trim,

window glazing, skylights, etc.

Doublestick Makes gaskets or permanently seals any two materials.

Not a structural adhesive. Seals underwater if needed.

Duralink Metal roof, metal seams, Kynar finish sealant, vinyl

siding and other tough adhesion substrates. Stocked in

popular colors. Paintable

TF100 Polyurea 2-part super-duty warehouse control joint filler.

Epolith Epoxy 2-part joint filler for high-traffic control joints. Lower

cost and easier to apply. USDA compliant.

Great Stuff Dow Great Stuff Pro, polyurethane foam sealant,

fire rated gaps and cracks sealant.

M1 Suitable for most all roofing materials including EPDM,

Hypalon, TPO, asphalt shingles, fiberglass shingles,

and windows. Paintable. Structural grade. Compatible with

asphalt based products. Can be applied and used in wet

environments. Stocked in black, gray, limestone and white.

Metalink Aluminum filled polyether sealant (solvent free & odorless),

exterior/interior applications. Matches duct work,

galvanized metals, sheet metal.

Novalink All around exterior/interior and roofing sealant. Good in

colder weather. Quick curing. Solvent Free. Odor free.

Pre-tinted in popular colors. Paintable. Also in CLEAR.

Novalink SL Self Leveling Expansion joint sealant like SL1. Cures quick.

Odor free, non-shrinking. Use up to 2" wide joints. Concrete

and Asphalt compatible. Pre-tinted in gray and stone color.

NP1 All around exterior sealant. Great for repair of broken roof

tiles, roof penetrations, deck joints, parapet walls, etc.

UL Fire Rated product. Pre-tinted in 12 standard colors.

Paintable. Can be used underwater (apply when dry).

Not recommended indoors (some odor during cure)

NP2 Tintable exterior sealant. Great for color matching exterior

colors on window frames, stucco, decks, expansion joints,

etc. 40 standard colors and 470 custom colors.

SB-1800 Quick cure (24 hours), use in cold weather,

applies down to -20F, dries clear (translucent clear).

SB-140 Butyl Rubber Sealant, White. Adheres to most everything.

Stays VERY flexible after cure. Adheres to TPO / PVC / EPDM.

SB-188 Silicone, High / Low Temp (-75F to 500F), Quick Curing.

High Performance, high adhesion, in red and clear.

SB-190 Super Strength (2000 psi) Sealant. Pick Proof. Clear. Not

for expansion joints. Great for Snow Guards.

SL1 Sonneborn Expansion joint / general sealant. Self leveling,

one-part, pre-colored. Use in expansion joints < 3/4".

SL2 Tintable self leveling expansion joint sealant.

Two-part (must be mixed with tint package).

Available in 40 standard tints and 470 custom colors.

Recommended for expansion joints up to 2" wide.

Sonolastic 150 VLM For very high-expansion joints /extreme performance.

Use on rubber roofs, metal roofs, pool deck-to-wall joints,

Log Cabins, deck expansion joints, vinyl siding, windows,

window frames stucco / glass. Quick curing.

Pre-tinted in 12 standard colors. Paintable.

Sonolastic Clear 25 Clear (translucent) structural adhesive &

waterproofing sealant. Very strong, fast curing, excellent

adhesion. Paintable in about an hour. Expansion joint

capability +/- 12%. Used for adhering / repairing roof tiles,

snow guards, windows, automotive trim, truck bodies,

windows. Not recommended indoors (solvent odor).

TX1 Textured. Its NP-1 chemistry and cures like grout or stucco.

Use on stucco or grout or anywhere a light texture is

needed. Pre-tinted in 12 colors. Paintable.

Ultra Security-Grade pick-proof sealant. For prisons, and

high-toughness situations. Also USDA approved for meat /

chicken processing areas. Great pool wall to deck sealant.

Stocked in white and limestone colors. Paintable.

Weathermaster Metal Roofing Sealant in 50+ standard roofing colors,

from Franklin / Titebond. Email for info.

Weathermaster Metal Siding Sealant in 200 custom colors, from Franklin

Titebond. Email for info.

Related Sealant Products:

Adhesives

Backer Rod (Use in wide and deep joints before sealing / caulking).

Backer Rod Insertion Tools

Blades, Saw Blades (for cleaning joints or crack chasing)

Caulking Guns (Quality caulking guns at great prices).

Caulking Joint Finishing Tools

Caulk Extension Tube (Reach-It Flexible Caulk Extension Tube).

Crack Fillers, Control Joint Fillers

Expansion Joint Products (Covers & seals for roof-to-wall expansion

joints, curb mount / curb flange expansion joints, corner and crossover

expansion joint covers, and straight flange expansion joint covers).

Primers (Specialty primers for use with sealants).

Putty Knifes (Joint finish tools, taping knives).

Saw Blades / Tuck-Point Blades (for cleaning joints or crack chasing)

Also see our Adhesives, Penetration Seals and Roof Repair Sections for similar items.

Applications & Product Overviews:

For very high-movement applications, difficult environments or the best performance we recommend Sonolastic 150 VLM sealant. Its advanced hybrid sealant chemistry provides superior adhesion to glass, wood, all roofing materials, swimming pool deck/wall joints and has a 25 year life expectancy.

For roofing membranes made from EPDM, TPO modified bitumen and PVC type materials, M1 is recommended. Use TPO Primer first on TPO.

For shingle adhesive on fiberglass / asphalt shingles M1 structural sealant is recommended.

M1 can also be used to create containment seals between walls and floors of storage rooms for oil based products. For example, between a metal wall and concrete floor.

M1 will cure under water and can be used for emergency wet repairs, applying pool tiles. Its important to wire brush then "work" the product into the surface to create good adhesion.

For Kynar coated roof metals, metal with acrylic finish, vinyl siding or vinyl clad windows we recommend Duralink or Sonolastic 150 VLM for its optimal adhesion and long lasting performance.

A great translucent-clear, non-staining sealant for glass & window, tile, siding, car windows and structural adhesive applications, use Sonolastic Clear 25. It is used throughout in the automotive industry for window glass installation, trim adhesive and for general sealing. With good UV resistance and strength, it is also widely used as a roof tile adhesive and as a snow-guard adhesive.

NP1 is a very popular solution for most construction caulking and structural sealant applications. Available pretinted in standard colors. It has superior adhesion and is suitable for +/-35% total joint expansion applications such as window frames, roofing tile, panel walls, parapets, vinyl siding, stucco, and in deck joints.

Where very rapid assembly or cold weather sealing is important, SB-1800 provides very quick cures, medium tensile (360 psi), and can be applied down to -20F. Use for of snow guards, sheet metal, truck bodies, shipping containers, spot welding (apply SB-1800 between overlaps and weld immediately - through the metal & sealant).

SB-188 high performance silicone sealant is used to seal to silicone rubber surfaces and high-temperature, electrical applications, and extreme environments (-75F to +500F).

Use SB-190 clear for super strength 2000 psi (cures more slowly in regular temperatures). Not for expansion joints.

Concrete Expansion Joint Products:

Novalink SL Self Leveling concrete expansion joint sealant is 100% solids (non-shrinking), solvent free (very low order on cure, suitable for indoors), quick curing (can apply down to -32F), and very cost effective. 300% elongation, 150 PSI tensile, abrasion resistant (pedestrian traffic suitable). Its a easy to use single-component product useful for joints up to 2" wide. Novalink is aged asphalt compatible.

SL1 and SL2 are great concrete expansion joint sealants and are used for public walkways, driveways, swimming pool decks, road expansion joints parking lot joints, pavement joints, driveway expansion joints, road joints, exterior deck expansion joints and such. SL2 is used for wide joints and is tintable in 40 Standard colors and 455 custom colors. SL1/SL2 are not asphalt compatible.

House Stucco & Grout: Try Sonneborn TX1 caulking instead of NP1. It dries with a nice textured finish similar to stucco or grout. It's the same chemistry as NP1. TX1 is easy to tool with a consistent appearance. Its available pre-tinted in many popular colors.

For above water line pool deck-to-wall grout repairs, both M1 and ULTRA are excellent. These sealants survive the stresses that cause mortar grout cracking. Ultra has excellent dirt pick-up resistance. Dirt and hard-water pool deposits are easily removed! NOTE: It is very important to keep the pool wall-to-deck interface waterproofed, as constant chemical and water exposure quickly corrodes the steel re-bar, resulting in structural damage. M-1 can be applied for in wet emergency repairs (resetting / re-grouting tiles) and will cure quickly.

Primers:

Where substrate adhesion is questionable, or in constant submersion situations, primers should be used. Primer-733 is an easy to use one-component solvent based sealant primer for use with urethane sealants applied to metal, wood and coated surfaces. Primer-2000 is easy to use one-component solvent based sealant-primer for use with Sonolastic 150 / polyether sealants applied to porous surfaces, concrete, grout, stucco and wood. For TPO roofing, TPO PRIMER is recommended. A favorite of many deck waterproofing contractors is Polyprime 2180. Its a 2-part epoxy-polyamine primer. For a easy to use on-component wood & concrete primer, try Primer-772. UNI-TILE SEALER is a two-component, quick drying epoxy-polyamide penetrating primer/sealer which penetrates and seals porous surfaces to improve adhesion -- excellent on concrete and pool decks. UNISEAL Primer is a one-component water based penetrating concrete sealer.

Backer Rod:

Backer Rod is an easy to compress soft celled foam. It is inserted into a clean joint at required depth before caulking/sealing. Backer Rod creates an even depth and supports the caulk. The even depth is important to create the correct width-to depth ratio (~3:1) for the expansion joint. Select a backer-rod diameter that is about 25% larger than the nominal width of the joint. Backer rod sizing and installation information is at the bottom of this page.

Technical Product Data Sheets & Application Information:

Barr Waterproofing mastic, low VOC, odor free, polyether based.

Butyl Rubber Tape Sealant

Duralink (metal roofing sealant; super adhesion)

Epolith (2-part epoxy joint filler for saw cuts in concrete)

Great Stuff (polyurethane foam sealant for gaps and cracks)

M-1 (structural sealant for EPDM, synthetic and asphalt roofing, wet condition repairs, immersion, pools)

Metalink (alumimum colored sealant, matches galvanized metal and aluminum finishes)

Novalink (higher performance expansion joints & exterior sealant)

Novalink SL (self leveling, quicker curing than SL1, pre-tinted)

NP-1 (expansion joints & exterior sealant, water immersion, color chart)

NP-2 (expansion joints & exterior sealant, custom tintable)

SB-140 (Butyl rubber sealant, very flexible with great adhesion)

SB-1800 (quick / low temp curing)

SB-188 (High-Temp Silicone, quick curing, high performance)

SB-190 (super strength, pick-resistant, clear)

SL-1 (parking deck and concrete joints)

SL-2 (parking deck and concrete joints, custom tintable)

Sonolastic 150 VLM (high performance expansion joint / sealant)

Sonolastic Clear 25 (clear joint & structural sealant)

Sonolastic Polysulfide Sealant (submerged water & chemical sealant)

TF-100 (heavy traffic quick-set 2-part polyurea saw-cut joint filler)

TX-1 (textured sealant, looks like grout, for stucco crack repair, etc.)

Ultra (white, pick-resistant, very tough, cures harder)

Weathermaster Metal Roof Sealant (adheres to Kynar, custom colors)

Weathermaster Metal Siding Sealant (200 custom colors)

Technical Summary:

Butyl Rubber Tape Sealant is a premier high-temperature elastomeric butyl rubber sealant designed to meet the critical requirements of metal buildings. It also meets or exceeds all sealing requirements for window glazing, air conditioning, and refrigeration. MB-10A butyl rubber sealant is extruded on silicone coated paper for easy application.

Barr Black color waterproofing mastic. Odor free for indoor use. A high-grade 99 solids shrink free, polyether based waterproofing sealant. Can be used in all types of applications, above grade, mechanical construction, and below grade. Compatible with asphaltic products and bitumen. Not UV resistant. Requires overcoat in sun exposed applications.

Duralink has 800% elongation, 75 PSI tensile, 24 Shore A hardness and is a Silyl-terminated polyether. Formulated for superior adhesion to Kynar finished roof metals and other difficult surfaces. Use with joints up to +/-50% movement.

Epolith has 75% elongation, 655 psi tensile, 85 shore A hardness and is a 2-part epoxy, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a puncture and abrasion resistant seal.

M1 Structural Sealant has 300% elongation, 300 psi tensile, 50-55 shore A hardness (hard), solvent free and is a Silyl-terminated polyether. Formulated to stick well to polyimers, EPDM, glass, masonry, grout, etc. Will stick to TPO with TPO PRIMER. Suitable to wet application repairs including resetting pool tiles underwater.

Metalink Aluminum filled polyether sealant (solvent free & odorless), exterior/interior applications. Matches duct work, galvanized metals, sheet metal.

Novalink Sealant is packaged in 28 ounce tubes and is very cost effective, yet provides great performance. It has 300% elongation, 150 psi tensile, zero shrinkage, solvent free, quick curing, easy to gun and tool, Silyl-terminated polyether formulated to stick well to most construction materials. It also cures quicker and guns well in cooler temperatures. Not recommended for Kynar painted metal roofs (use Duralink) or EPDM (use M1).

Novalink SL Self Leveling concrete expansion joint sealant is 100% solids (non-shrinking), solvent free (very low order on cure, suitable for indoors), quick curing (can apply down to -32F), and is very cost effective. It 300% elongation, 150 psi tensile, high abrasion resistance (pedestrian traffic suitable). Its a convenient single component product useful for joints up to 2" wide.

NP1, NP2 & TX1 are the work horses of the industry. They have 800% elongation, 350 PSI tensile and +/-35% joint movement capability and 25 Shore-A hardness. The are rated for water immersion (with use of primer). Canadian and USDA compliant for meat and poultry areas. US Fire Rated: Passes 4 hour, 4 inch, fire and hose stream test. Low VOC Content: passes VOC for all states. Polyurethane based, UV protected and available in a wide variety of colors. NP2 can be custom color in 40 Standard Colors and 455 custom colors tinted and the cure can be accelerated.

SB-140 is a architectural grade butyl sealant for skylights, windows and general sealing. It has outstanding adhesion to a variety of materials. Standard in gray.

SB-1800 has a tensile of 360PSI, Elongation of 450%, 28 Shore-A hardness, has a service temperature of -80F to +480F, tack-free in 40-60 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Can be used in metal panel assembly with spot welders.

SB-188 is a silicone rubber sealant with a temperature range of -75F to +500F, tensile of 350PSI, Elongation of 500%, 25-28 Shore-A hardness, cures in 24 hours. Paintable. Standard in red. Available in colors.

SB-190 has a tensile of 2000 PSI, Elongation of 500 %, 70-80 Shore-A hardness, tack-free in 18-24 hours and fully cured in 28 days. Min application temperature 50F. Dries clear. Paintable. Pick-Resistant.

Sonolastic Clear 25 has excellent adhesion with a tensile of 320 psi (very strong), 560% elongation, 50 Shore-A hardness and is suitable for 25% total joint movement (+/-12.5%). Clear 25 is excellent for any area needing long term UV resistance, such as roof tile adhesion, snow guards and any exterior or interior area you need a high performance, clear, non-staining product. It bonds readily to glass, stucco, concrete, roofing tiles, wood, most paints, and most metal surfaces. Sonolastic Clear 25 is paintable in just an hour!

Sonolastic 150 with VLM technology has 1200% elongation, 220 psi tensile, 17 Shore-A hardness, extreme UV performance, USDA Food service rated, +100/-50% joint movement capability and is a Silyl-terminated polyether and available in a wide variety of colors. Paintable.

Sonolastic Polysulfide Sealant is a multi-component, high-performance, low-modulus polysulfide sealant. Its elastomeric properties allow +25% joint movement. It withstands constant water immersion and will not degrade under limited chemical exposure.

TF-100 has 470% elongation, 1975 psi tensile, 85-90 shore-A hardness and is a 2-component polyurea, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a high load seal to resist forklift and hard wheel traffic. Also works well to fill random cracks.

Ultra is a one-component, moisture-curing, aliphatic, non-sag, high strength polyurethane sealant for security and institutional uses requiring elasticity, superior color integrity, dirt pick-up resistance, resistant to mechanical cleaning and enhanced long term UV resistance. It is also excellent for pool decks, swimming pool deck-to-pool wall interfaces. Ultra is capable of withstanding ±25% movement in joints, yet has a Shore-A 50 hardness for pick-resistance in security applications (prison windows, schools, public buildings) and other areas needing a very tough tough product.

Weathermaster Metal Roof Sealant is available in more than 50 colors to match metal roofing and provides exceptional adhesion to Kynar™ coated metal materials, along with standard metal, aluminum, steel, galvanized bonderized surfaces, plastics and glass. USDA Approved. Can be applied down to 0 F. 12 tubes/case.

Weathermaster Siding and General Purpose Exterior Sealant is available in more than 200 colors to match most siding and architectural requirements. Adheres to sidings, widows, door, wood, fiberboard, vinyl, aluminum, metal, brass and other common building materials. Easy to tool. Handles up to 1" gaps. Paintable in minutes. USDA approved. 12 tubes/case.

Exterior Caulk vs. Sealants:

Selecting the right sealant or caulk for your exterior application can be confusing. Over the past decades, many improvements have been made and new chemistries developed enabling greater performance and expanded applications.

Caulks vs. Sealants: Some manufacturers use the terms "Sealants & Caulks" interchangeably. Sealants are designed to seal an interface which has movement. Caulks are designed to fill a gap. Sealants are designed to create a long-term seal that stays intact and prevents moisture ingress and are UV resistant. Sealants deal with greater joint movement, extreme temperatures and have very low shrinkage. Class A sealants have +/-25% joint movement capability. Polyurethane (urethane) based sealants are now the most widely used product in the roofing and waterproofing industry due to their super adhesion and toughness. Today, polyurethane sealants (still called caulks by many) are specified for most roofing and waterproofing details. They are used extensively in flashings, termination bars, reglets, copings and pitch pans. Upgrades from this are polyether based sealants which can have +/- 50% to +100/-50% expansion capability. Examples include Sonolastic 150 VLM.

Exterior grade weatherproof sealants, such as NP1, TX1 and Sonolastic 150 are high performance polyurethanes which have excellent performance for sealing most interfaces.

"Painters caulks" are price-driven products serving markets where performance is subordinate to economy. Painters grade caulks have limited movement capability; usually less than 12 percent movement before cracking, delaminating, peeling or permanently deforming. Painters caulks shrink quickly over time and have limited (short-term) weathering properties (poor UV resistance). They are NOT DESIGNED FOR long term UV exposure. Painters grade caulks are are based on less expensive polymers such as linseed oil, polybutene, asphalt, butyl rubber, SBR rubber, vinyl acetate and acrylic latex. Do not use these products in exterior applications or where joint movement can be greater than 12%.

Sealants are a different class of product designed for exterior use and long term performance. Very high-performance sealants are 100% solids and chemistries are based on Silyl-terminated polyethers.

Phil Georgeah, President of Chemlink, comments “(painters) caulk becomes hard & brittle and cracks, splits or severely chalks within three years. These caulks often shrink, sometimes losing up to 30 percent of their volume from solvent loss, condensation or oxidation. Shrinkage applies excessive stress at the interface between the construction material and the caulk mass. (Painters) caulks generally exhibit fair to poor adhesion on construction materials. Adhesion failure gets worse with increased volume shrinkage. Most caulks are designed for the “do-it-yourself” market, or should I say, the “do it to yourself” market."

Although silicone sealants generally have good adhesion, they do not always perform well in roofing or stucco applications where heat and oil migration from roofing substrates or house-wraps tend to degrade adhesion. Silicones also do not provide good long term paint adhesion and are difficult to repair (silicone does not like to stick to cured silicone).

New on the market are sealant chemistries such as Polyether which have very aggressive bonding to most materials, skin over, cure faster than silicones and many older urethanes and are odor free. They exhibit very little dirt pickup. These products bond like traditional silicones but are both paintable and more cost effective. Polyether sealants with VERY low modulus (soft) are also now available. For example Sonolastic 150 VLM. These low-modulus materials are capable of up to 1,200 percent elongation and offer far greater durability in applications with great movement than either standard silicone or urethane. In addition, very little moisture is required to trigger a rapid polymerization reaction in polyether sealants, so they cure quickly too.

Joint Design (typical -- see individual product data sheet):

Install all joint applications per ASTM and SWRI recommendations and guidelines. Joints shall be designed with a depth to width ratio of 1:2 (joint depth one-half the width). It is recommended that the joint shall be no less then ¼” wide by ¼” deep (6 mm x 6 mm). The maximum depth of sealant shall be ½” (13 mm). The maximum width is 2" (certain materials; some are limited to 1"). Control the depth of the sealant by using a backer rod that is 25% larger then the joint opening at 75F temperature. Where the joint configuration will not permit a backer rod, it is recommended that an alternative bond breaker be used. Prevention of three-point adhesion is necessary through the use of a backer rod or bond breaker tape to ensure proper joint movement and a long lasting weatherproof seal.

How To Apply Backer Rod and Sealants:
1. Where priming of the surface material is necessary, primer should be applied only to the sides of the joint surfaces and allowed to dry tack-free before the Backer-Rod is placed. DO NOT prime the Backer-Rod.

2. Follow suggestions for joint-sealant application as directed by the sealant manufacturer.

3. Tool to desired shape using a caulking tool or old spoon. Hint: For polyurethanes, wet the tool regularly with water or toluene to enable a smooth surface. Soapy water is not recommended as some soaps can interfere with joint bonds.

4. Most products need 24 hours minimum cure before applying any type of over-coating. Follow the manufacturers recommended cures.

HINT: For those not who are not professional applicators, use masking tape on surfaces where you do not want sealant. It is very difficult to remove from unwanted areas.

Sealant / Caulking Yield Rate per Tube:

Joint Size
Depth x Width	Lineal Feet	Lineal Feet *	Lineal Feet *
(inches)	(per US Gallon)	per 28 oz tube	(per 10oz Tube)
1/8 x 1/8	1232.0	287.5	102.7
1/8 x 1/4	616.0	143.6	51.3
1/8 x 3/8	410.7	95.7	34.2
1/8 x 1/2	308.0	71.9	25.7
1/8 x 5/8	246.4	57.4	20.5
1/8 x 3/4	205.3	47.9	17.1
1/8 x 7/8	176.0	41.1	14.7
1/8 x 1	154.0	35.8	12.8

1/4 x 1/4	308	71.9	25.7
1/4 x 3/8	205	47.9	17.1
1/4 x 1/2	154	35.8	12.8
1/4 x 5/8	123.2	28.8	10.3
1/4 x 3/4	102.7	24.0	8.6
1/4 x 7/8	88	20.4	7.3
1/4 x 1	77	17.9	6.4

3/8 x 3/8	136.9	31.9	11.4
3/8 x 1/2	102.7	24.1	8.6
3/8 x 5/8	82.1	19.0	6.8
3/8 x 3/4	68.4	15.9	5.7
3/8 x 1	51.4	12.0	4.3
1/2 x 1-1/4	30.8	7.3	2.6
3/4 x 1-1/2	17.0	3.9	1.4
3/4 x 2	12.8	3.1	1.1

* Assumptions: 12.6 tubes (of 10.14 oz size) per gallon

Tubes assume 6% waste

Conversions:

12 tubes (10.1oz ) = 1 gallon

6 sausages = 1 gallon

4.57 28oz tubes = 1 gallon

54 tubes = 4.5 gallon pail

60 tubes = 5 gallon

We provide np-1, roof sealant, clear 25, BASF sealant, BASF caulk, expansion joint materials, chinking, sonneborn np1, foam roof sealant, RV roof sealant, glass roof sealant, expansion joint, road expansion joint, road joint, deck sealant, pool caulk, M1, sonolastic, caulk, caulking, asphalt fiberglass shingle adhesive, sealant, sealants, novalinc, novalink, degussa, chemrex, sonneborn, polyurethane, polyurethane caulk, tx1, Duralink, pitch pan, chemlink, polyester sealant, expansion joint sealants, expansion joint cover, roof to wall seal, expansion joint seal

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